Installation Tips for Electric and Nonelectric Fences

One of the first steps in fencing is determining the type of high-tensile fence required, the fence design and whether to use electric or nonelectric. A basic fence layout on paper will help you in establishing the post sizes, spacings, and type of brace assemblies. The fence designs listed in this handbook should be helpful.

Double Bracing

1. Drive the end or gate post small end down 48 inches into the ground.
2. Drive the first brace post 8 feet from the end post.
3. Drive the second brace post 8 feet from the first brace post. Figure 1
4. On the end post, drill a 3/8 inch hole 2 inches deep 44 inches up on the surface facing the first brace post. Figure 2a
5. Drill a 3/8 inch hole through the first brace post 44 inches up, in line with the end post.
6. Follow the same procedure on the second brace post.
7. Drill a 3/8 inch hole 2 inches deep into one end of the two top horizontals.
8. Drive a 3/8 inch x 5 inch brace pin 2 inches into the end post. Figure 2b
9. The top horizontal can now be slipped onto the brace pin in the end post.
10. Drive a 3/8 inch x 10 inch brace pin through the first brace post into the top horizontal leaving 2 inches exposed. Figure 2c
11. Drive a staple at the bottom of the end post and first brace post. Figure 3
12. Wrap the brace wire around the exposed brace pin at the top of the first brace post and diagonally to the staple at the bottom of the end post. Repeat this until you have two complete and tight wraps. Loop the end around the brace pin where you started and staple both ends.
13. Follow the same procedure for the second diagonal brace wire. Figure 4
14. On the side opposite the fence wire or the livestock side, insert a twitch stick 2 inches between the diagonal brace wires and twist forward toward you 6 or 7 times Figure 5. Secure twitch stick to horizontal post with high tensile wire. Figure 6
15. Repeat this step on the second brace wire.

Beginning the fence

Start by driving all end and corner posts. Next run out a single guide wire, which ultimately becomes the bottom wire and will assume a straight fence line. After tightening the guide wire, drive the remaining posts on all dips, rises, and level areas, not to exceed the footage in the chosen fence design. Figure 7.

NOTE: Drive all posts small end down. Use 8 foot posts on ends, corners, turns and dips. All 8 foot posts are driven 48 inches into the ground.

End and corner assemblies

These require a double or single brace, whichever is applicable. Figure 8

Dispensing the wire

Because of the strength of a wire, a well-built spinning jenny or a multi-reeled dispenser should be used to pay out wire for ease and safety. Stop paying out wire every 165 feet (10 rods) and staple the wires from bottom to top. Figure 9

NOTE: Staples should never be driven "home". This allows for expansion and contraction of the wire throughout the entire fence line. Should you install high-tensile Class 3 wire through drilled treated posts, regardless of the precautions taken, free standing moisture will likely settle and impair the expected life of the wires. U.S. Steel, in their original installation book referred to this method of wire placement as being acceptable, however, if you expect long life from your Class 3 wire, Fi-Shock, Inc. does not recommend placing wire through drilled treated posts.

Anchoring the wire

Nonelectric wires: Wrap wire around post and onto itself. Secure with two crimping sleeves.

Electric wires: Same as nonelectric but use a wraparound insulator. Figure 10

Tightening the wire

Install in-line strainers Figure 11 and tighten wires with the use of the strainer handle. The in-line strainers should be located near the middle of the fence line in order to achieve the same resistance factor in both directions. A tension spring should be installed on one of the wires to indicate tension. Figure 12 Tighten the wires slightly. (The electric system requires that the tube insulators and wraparounds be put on the wires before affixing the in-line strainers. These insulators will slide down the fence with ease and may be stapled at this time.) Figure 13

At the end of electric fences, leave 48 inches of wire on the top hot strand to connect the remaining lower electric wires. One crimping sleeve should be left on electric wires before anchoring, to allow for electrical hookups Figure 14. An extra sleeve should also be left on one hot wire at a gateway for the underground hookup. As an optional method, an Electric Fence Tap may be used instead of the crimping sleeves. Staples should be snug, not tight, against the insulators and loose on nonelectric wires to permit movement of the wire. Figure 15 After all posts are stapled, return to the strainers and tighten the wires to 250 pounds tension (equals 2 inches of compression of the spring). Hand gauge the remaining wires to equal the tension of the wire with the attached spring. The recommended footage for each set of in-line strainers is 1200 to 4000 feet. To determine footage for each set of in-line strainers use these guidelines:

4000 feet-----one straight stretch

3500 feet-----stretch with one 90° corner

For every additional corner, major rise, or major dip, reduce the length by 500 feet for each.

To allow for posts to set in concrete, return to the in-line strainers in a few days and tighten slowly.

Poly Spacers:

Poly spacers should be installed on the fence after the wire has been tightened to 250 pounds of tension. Figure 16

Electrical Connections:

Connecting wires and going under gateways should be done as shown. Figure 17

Grounding Fence Controller:

For an adequate ground, drive three 8' lengths of approved ground rods 8' apart into the soil. Attach a wire from the controller to each of the ground rods in a series. At each connection, use an approved ground clamp. To test for sufficient grounding, move away from the controller 350' on the fence line and drive a temporary ground rod. With the controller unplugged, attach a wire from the ground rod in the series and to a seperate pin driven into the soil. If a reading occurs, another permanent ground is required. Figure 18