Solar Powered Electric Fence Installation Tips for Livestock
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Solar Powered Electric Fence Installation Tips for Livestock

Important Note:

Before using the controller for the first time, push the switch in the "OFF" position and expose the solar module to sunlight for at least three days. This will allow the battery to become fully charged and ready for use.

Fencing Laws:

Most states have laws defining what constitutes a legal partition fence or a fence along a highway or railway. Local ordinances usually specify acceptable fencing between adjacent home lots. In addition, local laws may prohibit the use of electric fence controllers. A permit may be required in some cases.

Safety Tips:

  1. Use an electric fence sign to identify the charged wire.
  2. Inform family members and neighbors, especially small children, about the location and operation of the electric fence.
  3. Instruct all applicable persons how to disconnect the controller in case of an emergency.
  4. Never climb over an electric fence wire while it is carrying an electric charge.
  5. Do not install an electric fence underneath transmission or power lines.
  6. Do not use more than one electric fence controller on the same fence.
  7. Install the controller and the electric fence according to the installation and operating instructions.
  8. Repair of the electric fence controller should be performed by an authorized center only. (Battery can be replaced by the user.)

Solar Module Maintenance

The DO's and DON'TS for maintaining the solar module's efficiency:

DO--Check the controller and solar module as often as possible for proper operation.

DO--Clean the surface of the solar module when needed. Use a damp cloth, but do not use any abrasive cleaning agent or cleaning pad that might damage the module's glass.

DO--Cover the solar module with something dark in color when not in use for more than three days in order to prevent overcharging the battery.

DO--Remove any object that obstructs the sunlight from reaching the module.

DON'T--Use any means of charging the battery other than the solar module or a constant- potential-current-limited charger.

DON'T--Overcharge the battery. To use a battery charging system other than the solar module, the battery must be removed from the circuit.

Selecting The Location:

Select a location that will allow the solar module to collect the maximum amount of sunlight that is available on a clear day. An ideal location would allow the module to point directly at the sun at noontime each day of the year. As a general rule, modules used in the northern hemisphere should be faced due south (not magnetic south). Modules used in the southern hemisphere should be faced due north (not magnetic north). The location site should be free of any objects such as trees, that would block the sunlight from the solar module. (See Figure 1)

Proper Grounding:

Most fence problems are caused by poor grounding. Proper grounding is an absolute must if your system is to work correctly. A ground rod should be copper, galvanized pipe or a steel rod driven 6 to 8 feet into permanently wet earth. The fence controller will work more efficiently if the ground rod is driven to a point where moisture is constant. Never use an existing ground rod that is hooked up to other electrical systems or to a water pipe. To connect wire to a ground rod, use a ground clamp that is mechanically secured to the ground rod.

To Remove The Battery:

(See Figure 2)

  1. Remove the one screw that secures the top cover of the battery enclosure compartment.
  2. Tag, mark or identify the 2 lead wires which are connected to the battery, then disconnect them. Polarity must be observed when connecting the replacement battery.
  3. Handle battery with care. Keep battery away from fire or flame. Discard battery only in an accepted manner. Do not rupture case as battery contains corrosive acid.
  4. The replacement battery should be of the same rating as the original battery.
  5. Reverse battery removal instructions when installing a replacement battery.
  6. See battery enclosure cover for more instructions.

Typical Electric Fence Design:

  1. The design is simple and usually consists of wood, steel or aluminum posts fitted with Fi-Shock insulators and threaded with a single strand of wire. See Figure 3, Spacing between posts may vary at your discretion, but be sure fence is always taut and never allowed to sag excessively. Rule of Thumb: space posts 12 to 25 feet apart.
  2. The earth is half your fence so is your grounding rod is not satisfactory, you will have a poor working fence. For best results, drive a 6 to 8 foot steel rod, galvanized pipe or copper rod into the earth. This grounding rod doesn't have to be next to the fencer, but can be located nearby, preferably in a low, wet spot. This assures better grounding.
  3. In dry or sandy soil areas it may be necessary to run a ground wire just below the "hot" wire. This ensures proper "shock" if animal contacts both wires. In other words, some types of earth do not conduct electricity well and often single-line fences do not work because of poor grounding conditions. Check Figure 4 for details.

Fence Materials:

Posts
  • Wood
  • Steel
  • Aluminum
  • Fiberglass
  • PVC Tubing
Insulators
  • Plastic
  • Porcelain (use appropriate hardware with insulators)
Wire
  • Galvanized Steel
  • Aluminum
  • Plastic-Metallic Wire
Accessories
  • Gate Handle
  • Electric Fence Tester
  • Lightning Arrestor
  • Ground Clamp
  • Electric Fence Sign
  • Ground Rod

Fence Maintenance:

Periodically inspect the fence line and remove vines, brush growth and fallen branches which will short out the fence.

Troubleshooting Guide:

  1. If the fence is not operating properly, check the fence line to make sure it is not touching your house, trees, shrubs, grass weeds or anything other than the plastic fence posts. These will all cause the fence to short out.
  2. Check your connections to the controller to see that they are secure.
  3. Be sure your fence and ground wires are tightened securely
  4. If you suspect there is no charge from the controller, perform the following test.
  5. BE CAREFUL NOT TO TOUCH THE ACTIVATED FENCE WIRE!

    Use a commercial electric fence tester to check the output on the fence line while it is activated. If there is no output, remove the fence wire from the controller and check the output across the terminals with an electric fence tester. If the tester indicates output, the problem is with the fence. If the tester indicates no output, the problem is with the controller.

    NOTE: A blinking indicator lamp shows output to be OK. If the lamp does not blink, remove the fence wire from the controller. Turn controller on. If lamp does blink, the problem is with the fence. If lamp does not blink, the problem is with the controller or battery.

Fence Wire Recommendations:

Size: 20 through 9 American wire gauge

Type:

  1. Smooth galvanized steel electric fence wire
  2. Aluminum (conducts electricity 4 times better than steel).
  3. Plastic/metallic wire (see wire manufacturer recommendation located on the wire package).

Insulators:

See Figure A. Use standard Fi-Shock insulators on rod-type line support posts or on wooden posts. At stress points such as corners or the starting point, use Fi-Shock corner post insulators. Always insulate wooden posts. Do not staple wire directly to the post or you may have a problem with arcing.

Splices:

Two types of splicing can be used. One type in Figure A shows the use of specially designed bolts that make splicing simple, fast and effective. The other type in Figure B can be made without the use of extra materials. Splice connectors may also be used.

Insulated Wire:

  1. For running under roads, under gates, etc. use insulated under ground or under gate type wire only. Use this application with PVC tubing if desired.
  2. For jumping on three to four strand fences, use 12 1/2 gauge insulated under gate cable. See Figure C.

Gates:

Gates can be constructed from a single "hot" wire line with the use of an insulated gate handle as shown in Figure D. A standard gate can also be used without interfering with the electric fence by running insulated cable underneath the ground as mentioned above. To prevent cattle from rubbing or pushing through a gate, a "hot" line can be mounted on the gate itself. See Figure E.

Training:

Cattle, horses, hogs, etc. will learn to respect an electric fence system after some exposure to a "hot" wire. Set up a simple single line inside a set of pens or small traps and animals will soon learn what the wire means. Even hard-to-handle bulls respect electric fences. Training takes very little time and effort but it is a must if you want a completely successful fence program.






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